That’s exactly why we put together this guide. Whether you’re running a small laser business from your garage in Joburg, crafting personalised gifts in Cape Town, or just getting started with your first machine in Durban – having the right settings makes all the difference between “lekker” results and expensive firewood.
Below, we’ll walk you through the optimal speed and power settings for the most popular materials South African makers work with. Keep in mind – these are starting points, not gospel. Every machine behaves a bit differently, and our local wood species can be quite different from overseas varieties. So use these as your baseline, then tweak from there.
Laser Settings for Cutting Wood
Wood is probably where most of us start – and for good reason. It’s relatively forgiving, looks beautiful when done right, and there’s no shortage of projects you can make. From braai signs to wedding décor, wooden creations are always in demand here in SA.
A few things to keep in mind with our local conditions:
Moisture content matters. Wood stored in humid coastal areas (think Durban or PE) will behave differently than bone-dry material from the Highveld. Wetter wood needs slightly more power or slower speeds.
Local species vary. SA Pine cuts differently from imported Baltic Birch ply. Our indigenous woods like Kiaat or Yellowwood are denser and may need more passes or higher power.
Plywood quality differs. Budget ply from Cashbuild will have more glue and voids than premium stuff. This affects cut quality and can cause flare-ups.
Recommended Starting Settings for Baltic Birch Plywood:
Material | Thickness | Power (%) | Speed (mm/s) |
Baltic Birch | 3mm | 60-70 | 10-15 |
Baltic Birch | 6mm | 80-90 | 6-10 |
SA Pine | 3mm | 55-65 | 12-18 |
MDF | 3mm | 65-75 | 8-12 |
Pro tip: Always do a test cut on a scrap piece before committing to your final material. Five minutes of testing can save you hundreds of Rands in wasted stock.
Laser Settings for Cutting Acrylic
Acrylic (Perspex, as we often call it here) is brilliant for signage, awards, jewellery, and those Instagram-worthy cake toppers that are so popular for weddings and parties. When cut correctly, the edges come out polished and flame-finished – no extra work needed.
Important: Only use
cast acrylic for laser cutting. Extruded acrylic (the cheaper stuff) doesn’t cut as cleanly and can produce nasty fumes. Check with your supplier – places like Maizey Plastics can confirm what type they’re selling you.
Recommended Starting Settings for Cast Acrylic:
Colour | Thickness | Power (%) | Speed (mm/s) |
Clear | 3mm | 60-70 | 12-18 |
Clear | 5mm | 75-85 | 8-12 |
Coloured/Opaque | 3mm | 55-65 | 15-20 |
Mirror Acrylic | 3mm | 65-75 | 10-15 |
Quick note on air assist: Make sure your air assist is running when cutting acrylic. It helps blow away fumes, reduces flare-ups, and keeps your lens clean. This is especially important if you’re running jobs during loadshedding with a backup power setup – don’t forget to power your compressor too!
Laser Settings for Cutting Leather
Leather is where you can really charge premium prices. Custom wallets, belts, bags, and corporate gifts – there’s a solid market for quality leather goods in SA. The laser gives you precision that’s impossible to achieve with hand tools, especially for intricate patterns.
Fair warning: Leather can smell quite strong when cutting. Good ventilation is essential – your family and neighbours will thank you. Also, never laser PVC-based faux leather (pleather) as it releases chlorine gas. Stick to genuine leather or check that synthetic alternatives are specifically marked as laser-safe.
Recommended Starting Settings for Genuine Leather:
Type | Thickness | Power (%) | Speed (mm/s) |
Veg-tan Leather | 1-2mm | 40-50 | 15-25 |
Veg-tan Leather | 3-4mm | 55-70 | 8-15 |
Suede | 1mm | 25-35 | 25-35 |
Laser Settings for Metal Engraving
Now we’re getting into serious territory. Metal engraving (or marking) requires a fibre laser – your standard CO2 machine won’t cut it here (pun intended). If you’re looking to engrave dog tags, jewellery, tools, or industrial nameplates, a fibre laser is the investment you’ll need to make.
The settings below are for fibre lasers ranging from 20W to 100W. Results will vary based on the specific metal alloy and surface finish, so testing is even more critical here than with other materials.
Recommended Starting Settings for Fibre Laser Metal Marking:
Material | Thickness | Power (%) | Speed (mm/s) |
Stainless Steel 201 | 0.5mm | 60 | 1000 |
Aluminium Sheet | 0.5mm | 60 | 1000 |
Copper Sheet | 0.5mm | 60 | 1000 |
Painted/Coated Metal | 0.5mm | 60 | 1000 |
Laser Engraving Settings for Non-Metal Materials
Cutting is one thing, but engraving is where you can really add that personal touch. Names on chopping boards, logos on leather goods, detailed artwork on wooden plaques – this is where your creativity can shine.
The key difference between cutting and engraving settings: engraving typically uses
higher speed and lower power. You want to mark the surface without cutting through. Think of it like sketching vs carving.
Recommended Starting Settings for Engraving:
Material | Power (%) | Speed (mm/s) |
Wood (light engrave) | 15-25 | 200-400 |
Wood (deep engrave) | 40-60 | 100-200 |
Acrylic | 20-35 | 250-400 |
Leather | 15-30 | 200-350 |
Glass | 30-50 | 150-250 |
Coated Metal/Anodised Aluminium | 40-60 | 300-500 |
Slate/Stone | 50-70 | 150-250 |
A Few Final Thoughts
These settings should give you a solid starting point, but remember – every laser machine has its own personality. Your 60W tube might perform differently from someone else’s “60W” tube (especially with some of the Chinese machines where power ratings can be… optimistic).
Here’s our advice:
- Keep a settings log. Write down what works for each material you use. Trust us – you won’t remember that perfect setting from three months ago.
- Test, test, test. Create a small test pattern and run it on scrap before every new material or batch.
- Account for wear. Your laser tube loses power over time. Settings that worked perfectly last year might need adjusting.
- Clean your optics. Dirty mirrors and lenses reduce power delivery. A quick clean can save you from cranking up settings unnecessarily.
- Join the community. There are some great South African laser groups on Facebook where local makers share tips, suppliers, and troubleshooting advice.
Ready to Start Creating?
At 3DLasermonkey, we’re passionate about helping South African makers, crafters, and entrepreneurs bring their ideas to life. Whether you’re looking for your first laser machine, need supplies, or want some advice on a tricky project – we’re here to help.
Browse our range of laser engravers and cutters, grab some quality materials, and let’s make something amazing together. After all, there’s nothing quite like seeing your own design come to life under that laser beam.
Got questions about settings or need help choosing the right machine for your needs? Drop us a message.